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7 Things to Get Right When Fitting Your Performance Exhaust

Fitting a performance exhaust isn't complicated, but the difference between a clean, leak-free install and a rattly, droning headache usually comes down to a handful of small details. Whether you're tackling it yourself in the driveway or just want to know what good looks like before it goes on the hoist, these are the things worth getting right.


1. Seal everything properly the first time

Use a sensor-safe exhaust sealant on all gaskets and inside every slip joint. It's a five-minute job that prevents the slow leaks and annoying ticking noises that show up weeks later. Skipping it is the single most common cause of a system that sounds great on day one and develops a leak by the end of the month.

2. Assemble loose before you tighten anything

Hang the whole system front to back with every fastener finger-tight before you commit to anything. This lets the system find its natural position rather than forcing alignment by cranking down one bolt at a time. Tighten too early and you'll be fighting tension and clearance issues for the rest of the install.

3. Check your clearances before you commit

With everything loosely hung, walk around the car and check the gaps. You want at least 10mm of clearance around the system at all points — no pipe sitting hard against the chassis, heat shields, fuel lines or driveshaft. A pipe touching the body is the fastest way to turn a great-sounding exhaust into a tinny resonating drum.

4. Sort your tip alignment

Get the tips sitting even and centred at the rear before you lock anything down. It's the one part of the install everyone sees, and a tip sitting crooked or poking out one side undoes all the effort that went into the rest of the job. Check it from a few metres back, not just from underneath.

5. Tighten methodically, then re-check

Once you're happy with the position, work through every nut, bolt and clamp and bring them up to tension — re-checking clearance as you go. Things can shift slightly as you tighten, so a final walk-around once everything's torqued is always worth it.

6. Re-torque while it's hot

This is the step most people skip, and it matters. After your first drive, let the system come up to full operating temperature, then re-check every fastener while it's still hot. Exhaust systems expand and contract constantly with heat, and that first heat cycle is when joints settle. A quick re-torque now prevents leaks and shifting down the track.

7. Know the quirks of your specific kit

Some systems have model-specific steps that aren't obvious. On certain Holden VE-VF cat-backs, for example, there's a compressed mesh steel gasket on some cat-pipe flanges that needs to come out to fit the flat flange supplied in your kit. And if you're fitting VE-VF headers, the oil dipstick needs to be refitted at the same time as the right-hand header. Always read the instructions that come with your specific kit before you start — the five minutes it takes can save you pulling things apart later.


Take your time, work methodically, and don't rush the clearance and re-torque steps and you'll end up with an install that sounds right, sits right, and stays tight for the long haul.

Stuck on something or not sure about a step? Our team has decades of hands-on experience and we're always happy to help. Get in touch at info@goblackops.com.au.